making a machete

[Colin KC]

So, you have a steel plate, of unknown composition, nearly 1/4" thick & you're thinking of making a machete out of it?


I say go ahead

If you're gonna use heat to profile it (oxyacetelyne/oxypropane or plasma cutter) make sure you allow 1-2mm because of decarb which will have to be ground off (at least from the edge)

If it's 5mm thick, then drill & tap for 6mm set screws (6 holes, 3 for each side) & a 10mm hole near the butt for a lanyard (even if you don't want it now & don't drill the scales (handle slabs) you may want to later)

Make sure you do the above first, because the act of heat treating may make it more difficult later.

grind the bevels to within 0.5-1mm of the edge, heat the edge (unless you have a heat treat oven or forge) with an oxy****** torch as you slide it into a water trough (making sure that the edge doesn't get white hot, just a dark yellow/orange, this may take a few attempts to get right)

Test the edge with a blunt file, if it skates, it's hard, Then stick in an oven for an hour at @ 190-200 (or shine the bevel up with a quick grind & the heat the main body of the blade till the edge goes bronze/grey)


Stick the scales on, profile them.


Sharpen, keeping the edge as cool as possible.


& enjoy

[KrisWard]

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to add, I have bought some from BladesandBows.co.uk and never been disappointed, there stuff is good and at a great price.

I do agree it would be a good skill to hone, however if you want to use it practically say whilst wild camping etc. You really should use one made for the job, you dont want to be swinging a long sharp blade and it breaks on you.

Additionally, there are many varying degrees of quality with reference to bladed items, and this can make them much better for the job, or retain the edge better, or never rust etc.

Just something to consider

Cheers

[unsure]

for me the best thing you could ever use is a car / van leaf spring .
old multi pack springs are for the most part straight .if the come in five or six stack then look at how many you could make out of that . if they are more bent then you would like , as in not straight , place over two blocks and warm then up and work it till your happy .

[Bodhihermit]

Your best bet would be to find a large 500mm+ Saw Blade, one thats gone past it's max resharpen stage, getting in touch with some carpenters might yeild some good results, (probably won't get a full sized Machette from it, but it would do for a decent sized Parang) just mark out the shape of the blade you want, then cut it out using an angle grinder, loaded with a thin cutting blade not a grinding blade, do it in short stages though to avoid overheating the steel, it's just a case of making the handle, grind and sharpen, and get some heavy cordura to make a sheath

[Hamradioop]

https://www.toolandfix.com/silverline-g ... tAod7mYASg
SILVERLINE GT56 MACHETE & SHEATH 400MM (16")
Incl. Vat: £3.42

At that price worth a punt and not worry about making one.

[dangerous dave]

thats the one i have at the moment ( it ant good at all lol ) i wanted to make one for the experience of making one not because i needed one



DD

[Fallschirmwomble]

http://www.outdoorgb.com/p/webtex_mache ... tAodAh8AwQ

It's closely modelled on the British Army "Golok". The "sheath" is a copy of the 95 Patt bayonet frog. The tool would not only easily rattle in and fall out of the thing but it'd also wear through the side and/or bottom before too long. All the more reason to never draw a machete whilst holding the edges of the sheath...

Making a chopping knife is a great deal of work and surely not worthwhile unless you're making the ultimate knife for your needs and way of working. I'd buy a Golok then buy a correct sheath for the thing:

The Proper Golok sheath (95 Patt):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171227763541

A better one (44 Patt), though not waterproof:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171227763541

(But then, I've owned a Golok for decades...)

##

If you're going to make one, surely the best method would be to use one that you like as a template.

From personal experience, Goloks work but "Pangas"/"Parangs"(?) have greater chopping power. I wouldn't use a cheap Parang just in case it broke in use: the main blade could swing around what you're chopping and cut you nastily.

I don't know how you'd use steel plate to make a good machete, unless it was straight like a Golok. The more end-heavy you can make it, the better for chopping, its main purpose. Full tang very necessary.

A good Parang would need to be forged not cut into its curved shape. Then, of course, any blade that you make would finally need to be tempered by heat treatment.

http://www.knifecenter.com/item/SCCCST4 ... -Exclusive

In a survival situation, just having a triangular shaped blade with a riveted wood handle could work. It'd chop but wouldn't be so good for fine work. Just use metal that's much wider than your handle then taper it towards the handle. This bloke started with a machete but the end result is similar to what I'm trying to describe:
http://woodsroamer.blogspot.co.uk/2013/ ... o-pig.html

From what I remember, a good chopping blade is highly sharpened along the heel (nearest 2-3" to your knuckles) with the furthest end (belly to point) being left rather blunt. The main chopping area from the belly to the heel is sharpened - but not too sharp an edge.

[featherstick]

Just popped upstairs to pull out Weygers' book "The Making of Tools". Although his focus is on making small woodworking and metalworking tools, he goes into a bit of detail on selecting materials, treating them etc. He recommends using leaf springs as raw material, and also has useful info on tempering, techniques for working, and so on.

I would love to do more blacksmithing and it's on the list for when I win the lottery and no longer have to work. It would be a great skill to have for life in general, as well as for TEOTWAWKI. Personally I'd try to learn with someone more experienced than me, especially as getting a machete wrong might be bad for your health.