Your question
How much do you charge for a call-out?
Your answer
There is no charge for an RAC member making a call-out provided you have the appropriate breakdown cover. However, there are limits to the number of free call-outs you can make in any one year of membership:
• In your first year with RAC you are entitled to up to five call-outs without extra charge (six if you have joint cover and seven if you have family cover).
• If you've been a member for five or more completed years, your entitlement will increase by an additional two call-outs.
If you exceed your entitlement you'll have to pay an additional charge of no less than £59.00 per call-out, payable prior to us providing the Roadside assistance or At Home service only.
What about locking wheel nuts every six months i move my tyres round to even the wear the locking nut kept slipping off took me 50min with some old sockets big hammer have now replaced with standard nuts also my daughter is learning too drive and have made her learn to change a wheel wife says im cruel as it was on my 4x4 but if she can do that then a car should be noproblem.
A lot of garages use torque wrenches to tighten the wheel nuts up when a tyre gets renewed, a good tip is to wire brush all the threads and apply grease to them, also put grease on the back of the wheel, also it might be a good idea to check the ease they come off every month, just undo and redo all the nuts on all the wheels whilst stood on the ground.
Once done put some more grease on the threads and nuts.
Don't put grease/oil on wheel studs unless the manual specifically says to do so. Eventhough you think you are doing the correct thing you can actually overstress the studs/nuts. Wheel torques are based on clean dry threads, grease them and for the same torque you are actually putting more tension on the stud which can then fail!! I've been an aircraft engineer for many years and there have been more than a few crashes caused by overstressed / snapped bolts that had been lubricated - don't do it!!!
Maybe just a little bit on the exposed thread after it has been torqued up to prevent rust and general crap getting into the threads making it difficult to release?
I don't have a problem with a very thin smear of copper grease on the hub to stop the wheel seizing, I do it myself (just make sure it can't get onto the brake disks). Even if you just put grease onto the exposed threads it will get into the nut when you remove it, grease can also attract dust/grit which can damage the thread if not cleaned off before removing the nut. I would just suggest clean dry thread (wire brushed), fit wheel and torque to correct value, I think most nuts are probably overtightened when people stand on the supplied wrench 'just to be sure' which then makes them harder to remove when you need to. As for the exposed thread, if you have enough access just give it a quick wire brush if prone to rusting (with nut still fitted), but in most cases shouldn't be needed
As a get you home "last resort" keep a can of tyre weld in the boot, saying that when in France a fair few years back we used tyre weld on a mates GPZ900R, you are supposed to only do something like 50mph for 50 miles, but we then continued our journey round Europe at up to 160mph on autobahns , and my friend was so impressed he left his bike with it in until he changed the tyre 6 months later, mind you he did say the handling was "interesting"
last week i had to purchase a can of tyre weld cause when i checked all my tyre pressures i noticed that my front tyres were low ( old car steel rusty rims ) now i put some in one wheel and i noticed that the air was coming straight out the rim - knackered .. took this to the tyre yard and had it bead sealed (for a fiver) the other front tyre had more or less of the entire can,, now i just took the car to the garage to check the pressures the one with tyre weld in it had a psi of 37 WELL over inflated - just thought that i should share this with uk preppers as we all know on over inflated tyre is just as dangerous as an under inflated one!!
