uk-preppers.co.uk

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... reatments/


Contact Pete at the above firm they started off supplying the offshore industry with anti corrosion products

Yorkshire Andy wrote:https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... reatments/


Contact Pete at the above firm they started off supplying the offshore industry with anti corrosion products

Good call Andy.. used some bilthamer stuff during a classic car refurb... excellent stuff!

OM

I don't see the replies as negative, more concern.
Many people under estimate the weight of soil on an underground structure.
A ten foot long by eight wide structures with just a foot of earth on top is carrying getting on for two and a half tons (if my mental arithmetic is correct, and it's late and I'm tired), and thats dry, soaking wet you can probably add the best part of another ton. Most people add a few feet of soil, that starts to mount up.
I don't know the OP or what level of skills he has but for me a project like this would be taken to an expert to work out the loading and design.
Not having a go at anybody, just want people to be safe.

Bunker design is not that simple. the UK government issued a series of designs in a book "Domestic Nuclear Shelters - Technical Guidance." The intention was to give some level of advice on proper design. It is worth looking at as even so called professional designs do not seem to match the tech spec that they suggest. Level of reinforcement in concrete is a good example.

I posted a few pages to this thread a while ago. The information did cover waterproofing but I suspect things will have moved on.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=13862&p=153867#p153867

Regards

Appin

Right floor loosely swept and crap dumped in landfill if anyone wants their membership to the forum to follow the dumped posts crack on! If not keep it on topic RE: coatings

since the bickering continued despite my asking nicely for it to stop I've left it to cool for a few days, had a tidy up and reopened the thread THINK BEFORE YOU POST .... I have a 7 year old at home and can easily contain her with a stern look! On here I have a carefully calibrated metric ban hammer with laser sights and gps!





Remember the ww2 Anderson shelters were only 1-2 mm thick corrugated tin. And they took some weight and lasted the duration

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=azJVy9FSqCU

Theres probably better stuff, but I'm wondering if that spray on truck bed coating would work? I'm told it's pretty tough and waterproff.(never tried it myself).

sniper 55 wrote:Theres probably better stuff, but I'm wondering if that spray on truck bed coating would work? I'm told it's pretty tough and waterproff.(never tried it myself).

yeah that might work too, have you seen "lineX" coating ..... very expensive but looks impressive

xplosiv1 wrote:

sniper 55 wrote:Theres probably better stuff, but I'm wondering if that spray on truck bed coating would work? I'm told it's pretty tough and waterproff.(never tried it myself).

yeah that might work too, have you seen "lineX" coating ..... very expensive but looks impressive

No never seen it. I'll have a nose around the net later. Wondering now if it has other prepper uses....

A suitable coating: how about fibreglass?
Google 'sheathing a boat' eg http://www.robbins.co.uk/pdf%20files/sh ... _guide.pdf
https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ ... Fibreglass



This is for discussion and IS NOT a 'how to'!

Sandblast the steel (resin adheres brilliantly with mild steel but you must not trap existing surface rust in)
prime with resin
lay (say) 2-3 coats of f/g mat
then 'hoop' the structure vertically with paper rope (you could use closed cell foam in a 'D' section - with the flat part stuck down
lay (say) 2-3 more layers of f/g mat over the whole surface INCLUDING the hoops.
coat with f/g top coat

Your tunnel would appear to be corrugated vertically but the f/g would give you a smooth, waterproof surface. The benefits of the corrugated f/g is that it would significantly increase the strength of the tunnel - and be waterproof.



REMEMBER you must insulate your structure unless you are happy to live in it at around 10 degrees centigrade....... Personally I would cover the tunnel in a couple of layers of thick plastic sheeting a few inches of insulation before topping with another layer or two of plastic.
If you wanted a belts and braces approach don't just pile the dirt on but fill fertilizer sacks with dirt, seal them and then cover the whole structure with these in a 'bond' (imagine bricks being laid so joints don't overlap). Then fill the hole.

As someone guessed. I spent 15 years learning and working as a Sheet metal/Fabricator and can weld. Was only going 2 foot deep. But, looking at a plot of land which I'll go about 2 metres below ground. But, that I looks to be 6mm think walls with channel frame. I'm thinking it's about 4 tonnes ?