My view on shtf/inch prepping

How are you preparing
astalec
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:54 pm

My view on shtf/inch prepping

Post by astalec »

Hello,
I have in progress for a long time a different means of prepping, after I've figured out that I've derailed into consumerism.
The decision to write this sort-of guide was after I summed up the amount of money wasted on bushcraft and prepping items, and added on top of that the expenses for my back pain recovery after carrying the "have everything" pack for 10 years.
Please take everything I've wrote with a grain of salt, as it is my personal guide - may not be suited for other people.

Please excuse the writing, English is not my native language:

The key factors are knowledge and physical condition. They both replace gear. Knowledge, by being able to create, improvise, adapt, do more with less. Physical condition, by being able to protect yourself and be fast wherever you will be heading.
Physical condition must be above average. Traveling 10 km on foot with 25 kg load should be done without any ill effects, and within 2 hours.
An important aspect is the handyman skill. Using common tools like screwdrivers, wrenches, hammers, axes, power tools, processing wood, having an average mechanics, electronics, physics and chemistry knowledge should be second nature. You will also get your hands rugged.
Learn about the wildlife in general. You should practice lighting fires using birch bark, birch fungus, pine resin, making shelter, making a tea out of pine needles or willow inner birch, tapping a maple for sap, trapping, skinning and eating small game, finding edible nuts, roots and berries.
Fishing usually yields more than hunting. It’s also relaxing. Learn it using only wire, weight, hook and bait.
Forging a blade using primitive tools is a good skill to learn. A blade can be forged out of a fixed wrench, a file, pretty much any steel tool. Basically, you get skills for crafting the most important tool in an inch situation, which is a great survival and trading asset. Trading assets are VERY important.
Another important asset in a long-term survival situation is mobility and blending in with the surroundings.
This means NO camouflage clothing, but generic clothing or generic lookalike clothing. Gray Man philosophy is a good skill to learn and practice. Avoid backpacks and high expense gear at all costs. Not only it will transform you into a moving target, but it will make it much harder for you to live with. As a general rule, the more you possess, the more you must be willing to lose or to invest in defense. There are a lot of folks out there, with great skill, which will recommend this piece of gear vs. that. Or TV show protagonists, like Ray Mears or Bear Grylls, which will want to sell you survival and bushcraft items for the survivor in you. What you must understand is that if you have gear, someone else might want it. For a true survivor, gear is not worth fighting for, remember that!
For example, a nice cuben tarp is a wonderful choice, but will attract a lot of attention. I am able to spot a cuben fiber tarp, and I will take it from you. And your GB axe and Woodlore knife as well.
A word on synthetics: plastics/polymers and in general were invented in the 1900s. A typical worldwide disaster will throw civilization into the pre-industrial era. So, the most important pieces of gear that you must avoid are everything related to modern technology. So no smartphones, e-readers, led flashlights or other fancy electronics. I was tempted to say the word “unfortunately”, but here is one fact: technology does create some advantages, but in general they create comfort, laziness and loss of useful abilities exactly for this type of situation. Let’s be clear: wiping your ass is comfort, but a required one, because it is related to hygiene. Hygiene and a good sleep are very important for health and survival. In conclusion, going with synthetics should be considered only for simple and lightweight items.
One obvious synthetic multipurpose item is the trash bag. It’s uses are in two main survival aspects: shelter and water. You can build a shelter, cover yourself from the elements, insulate yourself from the ground, waterproofing equipment, carrying your stuff, create a flotation device, create a water still, catch rain water, make a shower, transport water. If taken care of, one roll of ten sacks should last to the point where you should be able to restock or set up alternatives.
Another awesome synthetic item is the braided fishing line. Albeit expensive, this extends the lifespan of your gear tenfold. Learn sewing technique and you should be able to fix clothing, boots, tarps, pretty much anything soft that can be glued can also be sewed stronger. Pair it with different size and shape of sewing needles and fishing hooks, and you’ve got yourself a complete repair, fishing and snaring means kit. A half kilometer roll should last a lifetime.
Jute rope is bare cheap and can be found and made everywhere. You didn't fall into the paracord hype, didn’t you? Dip the jute roll in molten wax and you’ve got yourself a nice rope that doubles as great waterproof tinder.
Civilian defense gear is utterly useless for survival. Ironically or not, geared up fellas in all breakdown simulations use to live shorter, so ask yourself: Do I want to be nobody and live, or do I want to be Rambo and die?
Do not mix bushcraft with survival. In first stage of an inch situation, concealment and distance covered in time are the most important assets. Be ready to cover an average of 50 km per day on foot. Foot injury can mean death, so protect your feet - do NOT run!
I’ve intentionally left out the flashlight for a green tritium. Having a flashlight on at night means that you draw attention. And you already know, drawing attention in this scenario is a bad thing. Your eyes are capable of seeing in any lighting conditions except pitch black. They will adapt slowly, but in a week or so you will literally see the difference. You can also train your eyes before, to know what to expect and not to freak out.
A green light tritium device will light for 20 years at least, does not need a power source, and it’ll fit the purpose of being a light low enough to not be seen, but powerful enough to read your map with.

Medical conditions
Most frequent medical conditions are depression, minor wounds, pain and infections. For depression, may God be with you. Go to church and practice, it’s not that hard. For non-believers, use the morale boost as a motivation or inner excuse if you like. Anti-inflammatory drugs for for pain and inflammation relief, large spectrum antibiotics for bacterial infections, triple antibiotic and allergy ointment for external infections and rashes. For minor wounds, proper disinfection and care of the area should be enough.
Foot injury is likely to happen. Heavy duty washable elastic bandage for knees is a must. It can also be used as a dirt protection over wound bandage. Injections are not recommended, nor any type of anesthetics because of complications and lack of proper knowledge to know when to do nothing at all.

Fire
Shortest way to fire when no fire tools are available is the bow drill, which is a good to learn skill. Flint and steel is the second best way, although you must have the steel, the flint and some charred lightweight material to get an ember onto. The flint and steel provides virtually unlimited fire, so use it as a primary means to light the fire.
Use the firesteel first only if the environment is wet and suitable tinder cannot be made or found. Any sharp edge can be used as a striker. Keep a few bic lighters for backup.
Fire starters can be made easy with wood shavings, pine resin, wax, grease/fats.
Keep all fire related items in multiple waterproof bags.
Many will ask why flint and steel as primary and not the firesteel. Well, the ferrocerium rod is pretty much modern technology, and granted you will not stumble into another one in case of breakdown.

Knife
A medium length scandi knife is mandatory for woodcrafting and other cutting tasks.
The second blade is a personal choice. Remember that a classic axe aids in fire and shelter and protects the knife from hard work. Never baton your primary blade, unless you really know what you’re doing. Any wooden handled axe can be fixed in the field.
A simple profile folding saw can be a necessary comfort for doing clean log cuts for shelter/fire, but sharpening it has been proven difficult. Using it sparsely will ensure years of use.
While a large and thick knife as one single cutting tool may be tempting, most camp tasks require precision, which cannot be delivered by a large nor thick blade knife/axe.

Water
Water purification is required all the time. Try not to drink unpurified water, unless it’s a trusted spring or you’re dying of dehydration, which is a condition you should not encounter (having water and no means to purify it).
Pour the water through a cloth to remove large contaminants and sand, filter it through layers of charcoal if it still looks dirty, then boil it for 10 minutes. Let the sediment settle before drinking - waiting until the water cools down to ambient temperature is enough.
In an emergency, use chlorine or iodine (Betadine works too - 4 drops in a liter of water with 30 minutes wait time).
Many will advise on using water filters. A great one in the Sawyer Mini with 0.1 micron absolute. Very effective. Against bacteria. Against viruses? Not a chance! A standard enterovirus averages 30 nm in diameter. Would you take chances?

Shelter
The key is to stay dry. For clothing, try to avoid cotton, but also remember that if you are careful it’s not that bad as it is hyped. Better, try to understand the difference between a cotton fleece and a synthetic fleece, so you don’t soak the cotton one, it will take a week to dry. Use any natural or man-made cover you find appropriate, but also do carry a cover sheet and a wool blanket with you.
A wool blanket is wear and fire resistant and also a good cooler in hot weather. Synthetic fleece blankets are lighter, but easily damaged by sparks and general wear. Sleeping bags are difficult to care for and easily damaged.
Remember, in the first stage of breakdown, you need to travel to safety. Travel fast, use the environment and skills to your advantage, and you won't need a sleeping bag. You can trade for or craft a better sleep system afterwards.

Food
You are a hunter-gatherer-trader until society rebuilds. Eat whenever and whatever you can find.

Recommended gear list:
flint and steel
altoids tin with charred punk wood in a ziploc bag
dry common tinder in a ziploc bag
esbit stove for wood fire cooking
common looking scandi knife forged out of quality carbon steel (mora bushcraft with the coating stripped off and induced patina to look rusted is a great option)
canteen with lid
ordinary water bottle
waxed jute rope
tarp
wool blanket
working gloves

Backup/safety/comfort items:
hatchet/hawk head forged out of quality carbon steel
folding saw
ferrocerium rod
bic lighters in a ziploc bag
vaseline or oil dipped cotton wool tinder in a ziploc bag (exercise using the least amount, i get usually at least 10 fires per gram)
FAK (brufen 800 - 25 pills, zinnat 500 - 20 pills, triderm - 2 x 15 grams, betadine - 2 x 15 ml, assorted plasters - 20 pieces, bandages - 4 rolls, cotton wool - 1 pack, medical tape - 1 roll, elastic knee wrap)
trash bags
compass
green light tritium device
toothbrush
300 yards braided fishing line
assorted fishing hooks
sewing needles

Trading
Instead of bringing trading worth items which will slow you down, concentrate on skills: handyman, blacksmith, alcohol

Any feedback is welcome!